Tears and Memories: Reaching Out to My Dad on Mount Sindoro

“The path to Sumbing resembles the summit route of Mount Merbabu but from halfway up. On the other hand, Sindoro’s path is initially friendly but deceptive, as what appears to be the peak often turns out to be just a hill, leading to plenty of overthinking,” insight shared by my college friend, highlights the contrasting experiences offered by these neighboring mountains located between Temanggung and Wonosobo.

Initially intending to climb Sumbing, fate had other plans and I found myself spending the weekend on Sindoro instead. Little did I know, this experience would lead to one of life’s significant, albeit traumatizing, moments.

Buckle up, as this is going to be quite a tale.

We arrived in Temanggung around 7 in the morning, fueled up with breakfast, and took some time to chill. The small basecamp was already occupied by hikers from various trip organizers, yet everyone was courteous enough to ensure there was ample space for all of our luggage.

They said the trek from the basecamp to our camping spot wasn’t too far. If we left too early, we’d end up getting too sunny and spicy up there. So, we opted to kick back for a bit of lounging, catching some Z’s, and snagging snacks from the local stalls nearby.

At 11, Shodiq, our trip leader from Tebet Adventure, began the briefing, ensuring that we understood the timeline and roles: who would lead the trek, who would be in the middle, and who would be the sweeper. Towards the end, he surprised us with some exciting news that brought smiles to our faces: we could use a ‘cheat code’ to reach Check-point 1.5 (yes, halfway up) in just 5 minutes, for a fee of only Rp15,000 per trip. Say what now? Count me in, please thank you.

All we had to do was stroll out of the basecamp toward the departure trail, then call a local ojek (motorcycle taxi) driver. Yep, you heard it right, we could ride ojek! We even had the option of a triple ride aka cenglu since the harvest season need some of the men at the fields *ultimate cheat code*

My ojek driver was a Temanggung-born old man and was a testament to resilience much like his trusty motorcycle. Our journey to Check-point 1.5 revealed the bond forged through life’s trials and triumphs. It was no easy feat navigating through rugged trails, steep inclines, and rocky paths—a true off-road adventure sans the safety gear, helmets included! Yet amidst the challenge, we were treated to breathtaking views of sprawling tobacco fields, adding a touch of serenity to our rugged ride.

“If there are no guests around, what do you do on a typical day, Pak?” I asked.

“I work as a tobacco farmer, and sometimes I help transport the harvest and work around the market,” he replied.

“So you able to see this beautiful view everyday, how lucky!” I implied.

“Hehehe this season was indeed beautiful,” he then took a quick sight to the view around.

Tobacco farming is deeply rooted in Temanggung’s culture. Along the way, we saw numerous tobacco fields with the leaves neatly arranged for drying in the yards of local homes. This underscores why Temanggung is often referred to as the ‘Tobacco Archipelago,’ known for its unique aroma and flavor profiles. I believe the scent of fresh tobacco was delightful, far more pleasing than the smell of cigarettes.

Upon reaching Check-point 1.5, we pressed on toward the next check-points. The early climb up Sindoro via Kledung presented its challenges. While the trail was short, it was intense making the rocky inclines particularly exhausting. Climbing has never been my strong suit, so when I do, I prefer taking longer, gentler routes than a short, steep ones. Therefore, this trek was particularly challenging for me. I’m not sure if it’s because I haven’t been doing much interval training or if it’s just my mind blocking the opportunity.

We took several breaks to match the pace especially since I tend to be slower. This is my third time hiking with this group, so they’re pretty aware of my leisurely pace, Luckily on this trip, there was someone even slower than me HAHAHA so I didn’t feel too bad.

At 1 pm we paused for lunch. Finding a flat spot for our group to gather was a bit of a challenge so we spread out a bit. Thankfully, the Tebet team had packed rice, omelets, and vegetables for us. Enjoying lunch on the mountain is always a delight. The only downside? They forgot to pack spoons 🥲

As mentioned before, the trek was short and before we knew it, we had reached Check-Point 3. “Whoaaa what a place to camp. So pretty!” I exclaimed, my eyes sparkling as I scanned the surroundings. Check-point 3 sits at an altitude of 2315 meters above sea level with a gently sloping area stretching towards the next hill.

As we arrived, there’s a plenty of colorful tents stand tall already and the hikers was kinda busy prepare for dinner, enjoying the hot tea, played guitar, I even spied a man just sit silently (maybe get his inner chi balanced as if he was an Dragon Warrior).

We followed through and at the end of the path, we spotted a large tent with black-plastic roof which turned out to be a food stall. It was huge for a tenant up on a mountain! The family behind the stall must be the hardworking one. I mean, how did they manage to bring their stock up here? I didn’t see any motorcycle around. They’re hiking? 🤷🏻‍♀️

The stalls all over Mount Sindoro, from Check-point 1.5 to here, are offered watermelon. Yes, you heard that right. A juicy, vibrant red watermelons 🍉 priced at Rp10,000 per slice. I’m not sure if that’s expensive or not but the idea of eating watermelon on top of a mountain especially when the watermelon is cold form the mountain chill is beyond fantastic.

Unfortunately I need to say goodbye to the stall for now as I didn’t bring any cash at all and I was way ahead of my friends (the ones I could borrow from 😌). Since I have two omelets for lunch, I think my belly can wait. So, I just kept walking until I reach the Sunrise Camp.

A huge shoutout to whoever made this campsite happen. It’s hands down one of the most stunning spots to pitch a tent in the whole wide world. The spot is directly facing the sunset and my tent was placed in the front area, complete with a small table and chair.

We watched as the sun slowly dipped below the horizon, painting the sky with hues of gold, with the city lights of Temanggung twinkling below, and majestic Mount Sumbing towering in the distance. Talk about living the high life at 2423 meters above sea level!

After regroup with Jay, did a quick wardrobe change and a makeshift cleanup (no wet wipes allowed!), I settled down with a steaming cup of ginger tea courtesy of the Tebet kitchen crew. Aaah, what a life. I zipped my pink puffy jacket up as the wind becomes stronger then Jay and I soaked in the sunset from every angle imaginable.

Here’s a little anecdote about Jay: she reached the camp ahead of the group simply because she had grown weary of Saka’s teasing about her new (fancy) shoes. Feeling annoyed, she decided to forge ahead and climb at her own pace, leaving the group behind. I have no idea hiking with a hint of annoyance can kick your speed into high gear. Fun facts!

We woke up at one-third past midnight and began our hike towards the summit at 4 am. To be honest, I hate summit attacks. Waking up in the wee hours and immediately getting active, especially in the chilly mountain weather, doesn’t sound pleasant at all. But despite always thinking that way, I still muster the will to get up and join the crowd.

We geared up with everything we needed: water, snacks (preferable sweets), headlamps, jackets, double-layered socks, masks, and flashlights. I was lucky to have brought a flashlight because my headlamp suddenly ran out of battery. Urghhh there’s always some drama with headlamps in every mountain climb I don’t know why. Besides the flashlight, I was fortunate to have Adam who (for some reason) decided to take it slow and accompany me during the summit attack. “No need to use your flashlight, I’ll shine the way,” Adam said after seeing me struggling to climb rock after rock and having a hard time holding the flashlight. He was indeed a good boy.

The trail to the summit was incredibly intense. It was narrow, filled with large, steep rocks, and at times, we had to crawl just to make it up. As time went on, I found myself struggling more and more. Breaks became more frequent, evolving from brief respites to prolonged rests until I found myself seated on the ground. I began the trek wearing a jacket but had to take it off as I started feeling overheated.

What makes Sindoro ‘special’ compared to other mountains I’ve climbed, is its penchant for tricks and illusions. Picture this: navigating a narrow path, glimpsing what seems like the end. Yet, upon arrival, another hidden trail looms ahead. And from that vantage point, the summit appears within reach but alas, upon reaching what seemed like the pinnacle, it revealed itself as yet another false summit with another trail waiting to be conquered.

I can say to my college friend: yep, you’re words 1000000% valid!

I felt completely deceived and exhausted. The trail was already difficult, draining, and seemingly endless. “I don’t think I’ll make it to the summit; perhaps I should call it quits here,” I said to Gondrong, the Tebet team’s sweeper. “You better stop at Check-point 4, it’s more comfortable and it’s just around the corner,” he replied. I was eagerly looking forward to Check-point 4 because I wanted to lay down and rest, maybe even sleep for an hour or two.

After an exhausting journey, I finally made it to Check-point 4. I bid farewell to my friends (including Adam, since the sky had cleared and I no longer needed a flashlight) and took a rest. Check-point 4 was amazing. It has a photospot with Mount Sumbing as background, and has a lot of space to people lean their body catching some rest.

But after minutes of breath works, I felt an irresistible urge to keep moving. Why? I couldn’t say. If I were being realistic, I didn’t have enough water to reach the summit and make it back to camp, and my energy was running low. The ‘battery low alarm’ has snooze couple of times. Yet, I was determined to test my limits. I’m curious, what does it feel like to be completely drained?

Then, I ran into Bono, a fellow trekker who had decided to call it quits at Check-point 4 and was lounging by a tree. “Tin, are you continuing?” he asked. “I think I am. Yuk, let’s keep going, as much as we can,” I replied. Surprisingly, Bono decided to join me. I knew he wasn’t a competitive person. He preferred staying in his comfort zone rather than exerting extra effort. But he continued and even managed to overtake me.

Was he leaning against a magical tree or something? Should I go back?

By the time we reached the final stretch, I was beyond exhausted. If I were a candle, my energy would resemble the flickering flame of a melted candle struggling to stay lit in a strong breeze. I stopped every five steps, and so it continued. Even a snail seemed faster than me. Each step felt heavier than the last, but I was determined to keep going. It wasn’t about reaching the summit out of obligation or ambition. I simply wasn’t ready to quit.

My heart raced as waves of sadness, rejection, and doubt crashed over me. Why do I have to be here? Why do I have to push myself this hard? Why is the path so cruel? Why haven’t I reached the top yet? Why this? Why that?

‘Dad, please. I’m tired. Please rescue me,’ I whispered in my heart. He was the only person on my mind at that moment. Not Pak Oyong or anyone else. Just my Dad. He was at home recovering from the heart surgery a while back, of course he couldn’t come and get me. How would he even come? By helicopter? Am I a golden girl of a wealthy elite?

My body started a little shaking. Like there were small storms in the bloodstream that seem to grow bigger and waiting to be expelled. What was this? Why was it like this? What was happening? What should I do? I’m tired please. Despite my exhaustion, I pressed on, one step at a time. My legs felt like they could give out at any moment.

Until I eventually collapsed on a boulder and cried my heart out. “I’m tireeeedddd, so exhausteeeeddddd huwaaaangggg………..”

All my doubts and fears poured out with my tears. I knew crying would only drain me further, but I couldn’t help it. I cried uncontrollably, my sobs echoing through the air. I felt broken, and relieved at the same time. I sat in silence for a moment, letting the tears dry in the cold mountain breeze. Gondrong, Wilmanov, and Are sat with me, offering comfort and company.

Even though I had cried, I still refused to give up. As the time is limited at the peak due to its poison gas, I need to catch up. For some people, a summit attempt might take as little as an hour or two, or could be a full-day affair—I hope mine stop at maximum 5 hours.

“It’s okay, we’ll take it slow,” Gondrong reassured me. As my friends hiked down leaving the summit and checked on me, I could only manage a weak wave. I’m glad they didn’t offer annoying cheers, or else I would have felt truly devastating. Nothing else mattered. I just had to reach the top.

Gondrong walked alongside me, holding my hand, matching my exceptionally slow pace. He’s not your typical cheerleader with motivational speeches. Instead, he respects my decisions and needs. Whether I choose to press on or take a breather, he’s there to support without judgment. Who knew a tour guide could be so understanding and supportive?

And with the help of God, I finally reached the highest peak of Mount Sindoro at 3153 meters above sea level, safe and sound. Alhamdulillah.

As expected, my water supply depleted during the initial descent from the summit, despite the return journey to Sunrise Camp being equally demanding as the ascent. The steep, rugged terrain made it impossible for me to pick up speed, forcing me to tread cautiously to avoid slipping. Whether going up or down Mount Sindoro, I was teetering on the edge of tears.

I outpaced my friends slightly, finding myself alone halfway down the trail. Sometimes I leaned against trees for support, sometimes I lay down in the grass. What amazed me was that I still had the energy to descend. I thought I would be crawling or rescued by the Tebet team due to exhaustion, but I managed to run a little downhill, slipped a few times, and then run a little more. Even mere meters away from Sunrise Camp, I found myself singing Justin Bieber’s song.

Our bodies truly are extraordinary, storing ample energy and persisting tirelessly through challenges, big or small. It’s truly awe-inspiring. I also came to realize that everyone’s endurance levels vary based on their preferences. For instance, while Saka may struggle to run 5 km, I can do so effortlessly. Conversely, Saka excels at maintaining a steady hiking pace, whereas I find it challenging.

Upon arriving at Sunrise Camp, my friends greeted me with cheers. “Hey, where’s my icy fruit booowl?” I searched for what the Tebet team had promised. I eagerly searched for it and then savored the shaved ice while seated in front of the tent, gazing at Mount Sumbing. Tears welled up in my eyes. I felt incredibly grateful to have safely made it back to Sunrise Camp unharmed. However, my tears multiplied upon hearing the news that Alfan’s iPhone was lost along the way. It was disheartening because we hadn’t yet AirDropped the photos HAHA.

After breakfast and tidying up, our group requested permission to descend early because we were all ready and not keen on lingering up there too long. “Okay, but make sure not to get lost and always there for each others. Alfan leads the way!” Shodiq reminded us.

Our pit stop at Check-point 3 was a treat. The spacious stall catered to many. Some grabbed watermelons, others went for tempeh mendoan. “The mendoan batter tastes heavenly, almost like it’s infused with turmeric,” Saka remarked. Turmeric? Where did that idea come from? Seriously, isn’t it supposed to taste like tobacco? We’re in Temanggung anyway.

The descent was equally demanding as the climb. We slipped and stumbled several times, often stepping on the wrong rocks. However, amidst the challenge, we stumbled upon a path adorned with small white flowers, reminiscent of edelweiss although not quite the same. Did you know that edelweiss is also known as the senduro in Javanese? I’m not sure if it’s related to Mount Sindoro or not but during the two-day hike, I only came across a few edelweiss flowers.

As we descended, we crossed paths with several newcomers starting their hike. We exchanged greetings and I couldn’t help but advise them to turn back and head down. It’s too tough up there; better to come down, head home, and hit the sack in your own bed. From my limited mountaineering experience, I’d say Mount Sindoro was the toughest of them all. The trek and elevation were so tough it’s put me off mountain climbing for the foreseeable future. As for how soon, I’m not sure if it’s a matter of months or years.

Then we all arrived at Check-point 2 in good health, cheerful, and ready to devour more watermelons. OMG I really need to mention the watermelons in this season were irresistibly sweet, refreshing, and oh-so-addictive. I can eat watermelon all day! If you’re planning a trip to Mount Sindoro, be sure to bring plenty of cash along especially if you’re keen on stocking up on watermelons (and other tasty fritters). Unfortunately, we couldn’t bought another watermelons because our cash was tied up settling our ojek fare.

Excuse me, taking an ojek ride again? Triple riding? Absolutely! *RIPmybreast*