36 Hours in Chiang Mai

The first morning of our 36-hour adventure and easily one of my favorite moments, was exploring the local markets. While I don’t necessarily need caffeine to kickstart my day, but the warm and welcoming smiles of the locals always set the perfect tone.

During our stay, we had the pleasure of visiting two markets which each offering a delightful selection of hot beverages, appetizers, sweets, and other treats. You can take your pick based on your preferences (I won’t object if you’re keen on visiting these two, but as committed slow travelers, we’re more than happy to spend hours exploring a market).

For those seeking a quaint atmosphere surrounded by charming shop-houses, Siriwattana Market on Changpuak Rd is the perfect choice. Situated close to the Old City, this market offered us ample opportunities to indulge in local delicacies. Here, you’ll find several modern and simple coffee shops offering coffee brewed with state-of-the-art machines and served in aesthetic cups. The prices don’t vary much between shops, so we can grab a coffee anywhere. As for food, there are plenty of vendors selling sweet and fragrant snacks. I’ve always known that Thai people love sweet treats and they really know how to make the air smell even more delightful to breathe.

Alternatively, Bumrung Buri Market on Nantaram Rd provided us with a serene morning experience at a cozy and simple coffee shop. No sophisticated machine, no aesthetic cup, no complicated name. I placed our order with the Mama-seller, “One black coffee and no sugar (for Pak Oyong), one hot milk tea (for me), along with a half-boiled egg and a portion of buttered bread.” In no time, our table was adorned with steaming cups and delicious appetizers, making it a truly memorable experience.

After fueld up the energy with local delicacies, now let’s hop back on our scooter and zip over to a spot that’s just a stone’s throw away: the temples.

Finding temples in the Old City is easier than spotting a stray Chiang Mai cat—which is a rare sight indeed 😿 Each temple here has its unique charm. One might greet you with a pair of three-headed snake statues at the entrance, while another prefers to showcase a majestic white elephant nearby.

Ever fancied sprinkling water using a tiny funicular to reach a shrine? Fear not, we’ve stumbled upon a temple where you can do that! And that temple stands in front of a small temple with a lot, I mean like A LOT of rooster statues!

But don’t let the sightseeing overwhelm you. This time, you’ll likely encounter fellow tourists everywhere, making it a bit tricky to capture a photo without someone photobombing your shot. But hey, taking pictures isn’t the main reason we’re here, right?

Feel free to take a break for some meditation or simply bask in the positive energy flowing through the temples. Or if you prefer, just relax for a bit to escape the mid-morning heat and catch a quick 10-minute power nap. Let’s keep this temple tour easy and enjoyable, spending a leisurely two hours exploring any temples we come across along the way.

On Fridays, it’s customary for Muslim men to attend the Friday prayer (shalat) at a mosque. So we made our way to the nearest mosque, Masjid Hidayatul Islam Banhaw, located in Halal Street Hilal Town—very close to the famous Night Bazaar.

This mosque is one of the biggest and oldest in Chiang Mai. Besides serving as a place of worship, the mosque acts as a community center where people gather and learn about Islam. Rumor has it that the mosque was built by the Chinese Muslim community who settled in Chiang Mai. Allegedly, the name Banhaw originated from a Yunnan Muslim named Li Chiang, who came to Chiang Mai for trading. That’s why some of sign here still written in Chinese.

During our visit, we stumbled upon a small food bazaar organized by the mosque’s committee of mothers (ibu-ibu PKK). Dressed uniformly, they managed the stalls and offered a delightful array of halal homemade dishes. While waiting for Pak Oyong, I couldn’t resist indulging in some fried chicken, sticky rice, and a tangy-sweet yellow noodle dish called Bha Mhee Moo Daeng. What an impressive home-made lunch indeed.

For our non-Muslim friends, feel free to join the crowd, grab some lunch, or satisfy your curiosity about Islam. I noticed several people engaging in conversation with Pak Ustadz (the religious teacher). I overheard them asking about the holy Qur’an, the significance of performing the five daily prayers, what is Ramadhan, why do we fast, who Prophet Muhammad (SAW) is, and more. Unfortunately, I couldn’t catch the rest of their conversation as the atmosphere was becoming busier by the minute.

Fancy some sunset gazing combined with exploring a local, eco-tourism village? So zip your jacket on, wear sunglasses, and fuel up the gas. Our next destination is Mae Kam Pong.

The distance from Old City is approximately 45 kilometers via Route 1317 and on average, it may take around 1.5 to 2 hours to reach Mae Kam Pong but can vary depending on factors such as traffic conditions, road conditions, and your riding speed.

Mae Kam Pong is a charming eco-tourism village nestled in the Mae On District. Surrounded by lush forests, waterfalls, and picturesque landscapes, Mae Kam Pong is a haven for nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers. Here, you can indulge in activities such as trekking, hiking, and immersing yourself in the local way of life with homestays in the village.

During our visit, we can take a stroll through the village, browse locally-made crafts, and sample delicious local delicacies (strawberries, anyone?). If you’re up for it, we can also explore the nearby waterfall and take a short hike through the forest.

While Mae Kam Pong is known for its stunning sunset views, most of the cafes with sunset spots close by 5 p.m. It’s a bit of a mystery, but fret not! We’ll still catch glimpses of the golden hues as we make our way back to the city.

Good evening, Chiang Mai! Tonight, we’re immersing ourselves in the lively atmosphere of the renowned Night Bazaar. Hek? Tourist traps? I know, I know but hey, we’re tourists after all, so let’s see what traps they’ve set for us. Just remember, we’re savvy tourists, okay?

Pak Oyong and I embarked on a stroll through the Night Bazaar. Our main goal was simple: find the perfect gift for my father—a bucket hat adorned with Thai elephants, and some fridge magnets.

Bargaining is a common practice here, but I must admit, I’m not a fan. These sellers are just small vendors trying to make a living. But when it comes to tourist traps, prices can be inflated quite much to leave room for bargaining. So whether you like it or not, you have to haggle.

After navigating through the traps, we headed to the enchanting Ploen Ruedee Night Market to grab some snacks.

The moment you step into Ploen Ruedee, your senses are engulfed by a symphony of aromas. The alluring scent of smoked butter with a hint of lemon and thyme drifting from the seafood stalls, followed by the sweet fragrance of jackfruit, and then a gentle breeze carrying the delightful spices of Indian cuisine. Magical, isn’t it?

Good mooorning! It was Saturday so can we hit up the Jing Jai (JJ) Farmers Market bright and early, ready to indulge in some charm and satisfy our hunger pangs. JJ is a renowned, meticulously curated market loved by both tourists and locals. It is well-known for its vibrant atmosphere, diverse range of products, and focus on locally made goods. Split into three sections, it offers everything from locally made fashion staples to handcrafted goods, with a bounty of produce and food stalls tucked away in the back.

For those needing a caffeine kick to start the day, coffee stalls and cafes are aplenty. But if you’re like me and crave a hearty breakfast, head straight for the culinary section for an array of breads, rice dishes, cakes, fruits, and more. While halal options are aplenty, the same can’t quite be said for our vegan and vegetarian friends. Worry not, the food was delicious so you might order the same dishes a couple of times. I am really into Kanom Krok (Thai coconut pancakes) while Pak Oyong surprised himself by enjoying the Thai-style dim sum—with a refreshing tangy sauce, and some sticky rice snacks.

As the culinary section tends to get busy later on, take the opportunity to explore the local handcrafted goods area and feed your soul with unique finds. Just a heads up, you might end up spending more than you planned—those irresistible clothes can make a dent in your wallet. The fashion scene here is amazing with one-of-a-kind pieces that you won’t find back home. Plus, some items are eco-friendly, which is a win-win. Although some things (I mean all the things, sorry) were a bit pricey for me, if you find something within your budget, treat yourself and I thank you for supporting local businesses.

Looking to pick up some gifts for your loved ones back home, or perhaps stock up your pantry? Then it’s off to the local markets we go! Avoid the tourist trap night bazaars where prices are inflated. Instead, head to the neighborhood local markets dotted around the city. 

Here, you’ll find a wide array of gifts and souvenirs at reasonable prices. Plus, don’t miss out on the delicious snacks offered by the food stalls, all at local prices and usually fixed. These markets are typically less crowded by tourists, giving you a chance to observe how locals interact and shop for their everyday essentials.

While exploring the local market, we noticed that the government has made thoughtful provisions for the sellers. They’ve installed well-built, spacious sinks for handwashing and cleaning equipment, and the market layout is neatly organized, making it easy for sellers to commute. This thoughtful setup adds to the convenience and comfort of both sellers and visitors.

Since we’re fully embracing our vegan lifestyle for this trip, let me introduce you to Jay Mai Jumjay. Just a 15-minute drive from the Old City, Jay Mai offers home-style meals that are 100% plant-based. Here, you’ll find a wide variety of dishes made with analog meat such as porq, ducq, chicqen, and beev—I’m sure you get the idea 🌱🍲

With over 50 items on their menu, including noodles, rice (regular, black, or fried), vegetables, plant-based proteins, and snacks, Jay Mai might overwhelm you with choices, but isn’t it wonderful to have so many vegan options? Once you’ve made your selection, simply place your order and pay at the cashier. Your meal will be prepared fresh right after payment.

Imho, the analog meat at Jay Mai seems to have been crafted with lots of trial and error, infused with a whole lot of love and passion as the result is nothing short of extraordinary. Their chicqen balls, for instance, were hands down some of the best vegan meatballs I’ve ever had. They had a wonderfully bouncy texture, were light on the palate, not too floury, and bursting with flavor.

And let’s not forget about their other menu items—satisfying portions, perfectly seasoned, and utterly delicious. Oh, and do yourself a favor and don’t miss out on their whole coconut. You’re welcome.